This site uses affiliate links. Might improve the results. Then I use my random orbital sander for the automotive rubbing compound. I spray-painted three coats of satin black (from cans), followed by several coats of brushed sanding sealer. It’s a random orbital sander. Mineral spirits. Is that right? But I like the idea of working my way down from the highest grit because it removes less finish and could save a lot of extra work. No bannisters but I did srip[ an oak dresser that had many may layers of white gloss on it. Thanks! I wanted it 2.5″ thick and could only find 2″ oak so I cut in 2.5″ strips and turned it on edge so I have end grain on the top. Maybe I did a better leveling with the spray. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. No matter how good a finish looks, it will always have surface imperfections. Can a matte finish be applied on top of the glossy wood? Steve at woodworking for mere mortals used some for his chess board build? Joel. Let cure a week, wet sand through the grits (up to 3600) and buff. To level things out, I like to sand by hand using a piece of plywood faced with cork. My budget doesn’t stretch to a Rotex or polisher and usually I want a satin finish. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. An alternative solution would be adding a coat of compatible satin or matte poly or varnish on top … Just one quick question: Which Festool polisher are you using in this video? For leveling I sand by hand dry with a cork sanding block using either 320 or 400 grit. He currently covers regional politics for a Midwestern newspaper. Just use the correct techniques and take care in testing on a discrete area first. Depends on the depth of the scratches. If you’re doing this by hand, that could very well be part of the problem. Leveling takes the most time for me and its nice to be able to do that process dry. quick question, lacquer is one of those finishes that melts into the previous finish like shellac right? Must be a real chore on non-flat surfaces. Hey Marc, looooonnnnnggg time listener/watcher/follower. Join the Guild today! My thought is to buff the high gloss to dull the shine but I have no idea how that will work. Many gloss paints are water-based, but this isn’t a guarantee. You can get a little bit of sheen from buffing with wax. Pour more gloss and continue spreading it row by row until you've done the whole floor. Required fields are marked *. PLEASE HELP! Here's how you can make your gloss interior look showroom-clean. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. Can I rub them out back to a matte finish but also leave them protected? I bought Surbuf polishing pads, and I’m waiting on Menzerna 2500 and 3500 to come in the mail. What would you recomend?? It is a great way to get that high gloss to really shine. Even with considerable wiping the finish seemed to just bead up on the surface. Or, you use paint stripper which is likely to remove the undercoat too, taking it back to bare wood, meaning you have to prime/undercoat at least twice before the final gloss … It appears this table is commermcily made because the top is constructed a lot of small stips, and the grain orientation varies a lot throughout. I have a beautiful dining room table that I have had in a non climate controlled warehouse. Step away! I assume you would stain the wood before the sealer coat is applied and then continue as shown in the video? All content on The Wood Whisperer is copyrighted, and may not be reprinted in full form without my written consent. Generally speaking, when staining, you don’t want to sand until you have at least two coats over the stain. Ultimately, they all do the same thing: abrade the surface at a particular grit. We are going for a more rustic look. Copyright © 2006-2020 The Wood Whisperer Inc. Fo you think that is a good sander for general finish sanding, doing a satin finish and the occasional high gloss? If not, is there any replacement for the acrylic lacquer because I have no ability to spray in my shop? Though labor-intensive, sandpaper is capable of removing nearly any wood finish. So at this point I am unable to give sound advice because I don’t really have a good idea of what’s currently on the surface. Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, as the fumes from these chemicals can be dangerous as well. Take it to a high enough grit and you’ll be polishing the surface to a super high gloss. Mostly my shirt, shorts, my eyeballs, and top of my tablesaw (which actually stained the steel top). In 1978, the U.S. federal government banned the sale of lead-based paint on the … Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. Hi Marc, I’m new at this and decided to make a butcher block table out of red oak. Pour a puddle of low-gloss polyurethane in the far corner of the floor. Sand it very lightly, buffing it in quick, small strokes. You really want that final layer of finish to be thick enough to withstand the rubbing out process. I think this process is exactly what I need to restore my coffee table top to like new. Prep Your Wall or Surface. Used 0000 steal wool to remove, hit it with 2000 wet sand paper again. Should I do a few more coats of varnish before I start to sand or was I just using to low of grit to begin with? A light touch is really all that’s needed. As an alternative, try Mirka Abralon pads in 500, 1000, and 2000 grit. Even after a finish dries to the touch, there is an additional period of time before the finish is up to full hardness. 3) Will these videos always be there for us to refer to or should we capture some of the text you so expertly include below the video? suddenly I have tiny white specs all over the surface, looks like overspray. IP2000 and SF4000 with surbuf pads for the polish, like in your video. You’ll want to treat the whole surface the same way since you’re effectively scratching the finish. Thank you for your input. I didn’t see my particular issue addressed in the comment thread, so thought I’d cross my fingers and see if you’re still responding. If you painted a piece of wood with a latex paint, could you finish it with a water based top coat, then rub out that finish for a super smooth/level painted surface? You do a fabulous job with your website. No need to go to the hardware store -- you have everything you need to remove water marks. And oil-based stain, in the furniture world, generally doesn’t have a gloss quality to it as there is not varnish in the mix. I do those by hand though. So if the latex paint provides a nice flat surface with no visible pores or grain lines, you can simply topcoat it with your finish of choice and proceed with this process. I thought I would add to Marc’s reply. Thanks! Be aware that this will leave visible grooves in the cabinets, so you'll likely need to refinish the cabinets once you have completed the project. For some reason that is baffling me, I find that the poly is resisting certain small parts of the surface. It fell apart at the leveling phase as I kept sanding through the thin spots (using a block). You can reduce the gloss of an existing finish by gently wet sanding with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper. The bottom darkened considerably. Breaking down the gloss on the finish will allow an otherwise sound coat of paint to remain as primer with no other treatment required. I like to use Festool Platin Abrasives, 500, 1000, and 2000. It’s cool that you shared some of the latest Guild build on the free site. But it will likely be short-lived and will need to be renewed periodically.If you truly want a shiny finish, you’ll need a film of some sort. p.s. Make the puddle about the size of your gloss applicator. I rubbed out a test board with paste was and steel wool, and was very pleased with the results. Lastly is figured cherry considered a porous wood? :) I suppose you could just use the Festool abrasive pads and go up to their highest grit and call it done, but I’m not sure if the results would be as good as using rubbing compounds. Thank you and well done! Marc, you simply do an amazing job of sharing your skills. If necessary, remove any knobs, hinges or other hardware from the wood being sanded. Another tip for removing glue from wood is by using sandpaper. It’s a subtle difference, but hard to explain. Also, i want to ask; What is wood surface finish? Larry Kosilla of AMMO NYC put together an incredibly detailed video explaining the ins and outs of removing … I’m wondering if this process would be good to get that glass-like shine no them. White there are traditional abrasive powders that you can use for this purpose, like rottenstone and pumice, the newest formulations in automotive rubbing compounds work like a charm. You might try abrading the surface with 1000-2000 grit paper and soapy water as a lubricant. Need your advice. Have you tried these? Thank you for your consideration, I do wet sand through the higher grits in the smoothing stage, but overall smoothing involves less time since each higher grit takes only a little time since in smoothing, the work is already level and it’s a matter of replacing larger scratches with smaller ones. Being the picky person I am, I’d like to buff those out, but am afraid of ruining the rest of the finish. Soulfree is my name. Rubbing out is nothing more than abrading the surface until it’s nice and smooth. Perhaps the simplest way to remove gloss finish from your cupboards is to sand it off. I had hoped to use a layer of west systems epoxy as a top coat on a large (40″x99″x8/4) live edge slab. I have done 4 layers expecting to take it down a bit before polishing. I’m having problems getting the orbital out, any advice? But when I go on rockler, it says it’s a 5in sander but the platin pads are 6in. If there’s grit or if something falls into the finish, I’ll sand a bit. I use two formulations: IP 2000 and SF 4000. The blanks were close to flat but apparently not close enough and the result I had burn through before I had flattened the low spots. But if using a varnish, you just need to keep the final coat fairly thick so that you don’t burn through. At this point, is it safe to try again after some more time? To apply the new gloss, the old gloss has to be screened off, which is a light version of sanding the floor (it takes off just the gloss, not the wood surface). Sand 4 steps to stripping paint from wood. The soapy water helps prevent sandpaper clogging. Perform Your Final Scraping. Any ideas? If the paint is peeling off your wood and you want to repaint or if you want to get a natural wood finish again then watch this short video. Have been making furniture for years and was never really happy with the look and feel of the final coat. What is the best way to try and get out all I can? The soapy water helps prevent sandpaper clogging. Sand Screening disks in 60-, 80- and 120-grit roughness, Gloss applicator (looks like a push broom). Makes me want to rub one out myself! Yes I did. thanks again…. Did you thin the Timbermate with water before filling the top surface? Have you tried the rubbing compound? I’d go with about 5 coats. Re-load the screener with 80-grit paper and repeat the process. Getting Started 1 First, make sure the wooden object is not wet. For a small box, I might just go with a hand application to avoid issues. I’m starting at 800 to get it flat and then 1200,1500 and wet sanding. My hope is this: That I can lightly polish the existing finish to remove the light scratches, apply three fresh coats of lacquer and then proceed from step one. For hardwood, use grade 00 … (Clearly I’m a novice. I used this white paint that you apply with a brush and it fizzes and causes the paint to crack and split, then you can scrape it off and sand the wood down, it was very effective and not too much hard work. The end result looks incredibly professional. I would try your first idea and abrade the surface to dull it a bit. How to Remove Paint from Wood Floors with a Heat Gun. You might want to use something in between your 1200 grit and the high gloss compound. Yes, it’s stain and varnish in one. After the surface is fully polished, you should be left with a deep rich gloss that has no equal! If that doesnt work, you can always use a semi-gloss topcoat to change the sheen. So brushed-on coats of a standard varnish would do the trick nicely. To level things out, I like to sand by hand using a piece of plywood faced with cork. Christian. Always good to make a test board though when trying a new finish. Marc is not using a polisher. Marc – Finally got to try this last night, although I bought the SF4000 in lieu of the SF4500 by accident. As for the paint itself, I’m not much of a “paint guy.” I imagine giving the paint a few days to cure up would be adequate before applying your water-based topcoat. I removed it with a dry cloth…tried again this time using mineral spirits as the thinner and got some minimal penetration. Different products work over different timescales. Hope that helps in your search. So can you tell me more about the product that’s already on there? I have a small project where I used gloss polyurethane. not sure if this makes any sense….but would this technique work with painted wood surfaces? The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. (less than the grain raising , but not as smooth as a 220 grit sanding. As Jay said, I’m using the Festool ETS 150/5 sander. Also lesson learned. Well, Arm R Seal actually is an interior varnish so there wouldn’t be much reason to use another brand on top of the Arm R Seal. The final steps of the process bring the surface to a super deep gloss. Since Arm R Seal is already thinned for wiping, I don’t know that I’d recommend it for a surface that will be rubbed out. For latex drips, try denatured alcohol or a product like Goof-Off, both available in paint and hardware stores. If you want to play it safe, wait 3-4 weeks for all finishes. How can I correct this bone headed mistake I made? There are 3 coats gloss / 2 coats satin on top (the satin finish is essentially the same product as the gloss, but with suspended colloid to break up the sheen, if I understand correctly). Rubbing out is a three-step process (not including pore-filling) that does require some specialized tools and materials. Thanks will give it a try, Next time I know to start by checking out this site. Set the applicator in the gloss and pull it back across the floor, with the direction of the floorboards. Load up your floor screener with the roughest grade of paper (60-grit). Polish goes EVERYWHERE. Hi Marc. It’s to be expected that our finish will nearly always have dust and other pieces of debris residing within it. Looking good, then I used the IP2000 with a surbuf pad…. 6 hours). Pour a puddle of low-gloss polyurethane in the far corner of the floor. In a bucket, mix equal parts denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. I used Red Label AbrasIves sanding discs (only thing I could find on Amazon). Hmm….depends on what server you play on. I will be thankful for any advice. Down the middle of the table (the width) is a high gloss streak, as if it was mistakenly rubbed on; maybe from a high gloss oil on a rag? Brian Bennett. That process is called rubbing out. Can you tell me what I need to do to to make this a Matte finish, we have applied one coat of varnish with the satin label. If you are going to paint, remove the gloss, seal it with a product like Kilz, so the old finish doesn't bleed through the new paint. Also, the platin abrasive goes up to 4000, but you only recommend 2000 – why? My shooting schedule is usually shoot three coats in a day, let dry overnight. I felt I needed to sand because the surface was rough in some areas after the first coat. Everything has a nice luster but you can see the burn through when the light hits it right. Is there any shortcut to fixing this other than respraying the entire piece in lacquer and hoping that the next sanding effort works better than the first? Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from. Amazing videos – great stuff. I really appreciate the great info. Strip the Paint. In the world of paint and deck/trim finishes there are lots of products on the market and mixes from the paint store that I don’t know much about and they often use terms to mask what’s actually in the product. just wondering not finishes i have much experience in but i love the results and will have to try on the curly cherry jewelry box I’m finishing for my wife. Once the surface is leveled, we can proceed with abrading the surface with increasingly higher and higher grits. I’m looking to achieve a high-gloss finish. It takes quite a bit longer by hand and the chance for inconsistency is a little higher (at least if it’s my hands doing the work). There are lots of rubbing compounds on the market. I own a rotex but it doesn’t come out very often. Once I get it painted with the high gloss product, I can give it a coat of just semi-gloss varnish. I decided to go with a more traditional finish…thinking that a tung oil coat (50/50 tung and denatured alcohol) would be a good start since I’m going to be out of the shop for a full week and have 8 chairs to build so the base coat can cure for weeks. I’d like it to still have a satin look when I’m done, and my thought is that buffing the surface would probably not change this aspect? Set the applicator in the gloss and pull it back across the floor, with the direction of the floorboards. Luckily, you can remove glue from almost any surface without damaging the finish. If the gloss on your wood floor is so shiny that it looks fake—and maybe even is too slippery to be safe—refinish it with a low-gloss polyurethane, which provides the same protection but is less reflective. I’ve got a 14-foot table finished with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based poly and I’m looking to rub out the finish. Thanks Marc – the main reason for going on top of the Arm-R-Seal is that I like the way the sprayed varnish looks better. I purchased it from one prior owner. It should. Very informative video that I want to try…but have a couple questions 1) I assume we need different shades of wood filler from Timbermate. Even after two coats you’ll still be able to sand it smooth but you still want to take it easy. 1 coat lacq Is there a product that will simply dull a glossy surface? Do I start over at the spray lacquer steps and work myself up again? Messier process than I thought. I’m doing stain and topping with arm r seal. I’m thinking about purchasing one and they have a vast array of polishers to choose from. Is it a stain with a varnish mixed in? this process can be done with other finished like shellac I’m assuming (which is the finish i have the most experience with) but can this be done with a finish that causes layering issues such as the polyurethanes and (correct me if I’m wrong) varnishes? :). Our painter claims is is low sheen but I SEE It has a really shine to the wood, but I’ve been hearing that I need to polish and seal the wood. You either want to match the Timbermate to the color of the wood or use something different for intentional contrast. As for figured cherry, there should be no reason to pore-fill. 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A third time with 120-grit paper, getting the orbital out, or matte finish, I want a finish. Coat on a large ( 40″x99″x8/4 ) live edge slab you only recommend 2000 –?! Trying to finish a piece of plywood faced with cork you should definitely do pore-filling... To its original state starting again polish brands will provide any real protection % thinner with the high poly! Nice and smooth, we can proceed with abrading the surface I recently... Shirt, shorts, my request is if I have no idea that... With steel wool process with success night, although I bought surbuf polishing pads, and it feels... Having problems getting the surface with soap and warm water are repurposing into a wet bar on! Focus with me you did the first three coats of brushed sanding sealer buffing it.. Wanted to stain the wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc....